In its relatively clear state, this is infectiously juicy and buoyant, displaying a flatteringly glossy, silken feel and finishing with consummate refreshment. As usual, scents and flavors tend toward the herbal and mineral: meadow-like perfume, nippy cress, crunchy cucumber, saliva-inducing oyster liquor, crushed stone and hints of transparent apple and firm, tangy Bartlett pear skin.

• Gruner Veltliner •